However, a word about oxygen. This device basically pumps pure air (79 percent nitrogen, 20 percent oxygen) into your coffee, rather than using a nitro cartridge. While this is great, exposure to oxygen is known to be the enemy of fresh-tasting coffee. After the nitro evaporated, side-by-side taste tests showed a more flabby, oxidized flavor in the nitro than in the basic non-nitro.
But this doesn’t really show up right out of the machine. What you will notice is a refreshing and pleasant bubble that also adds a perceived sweetness. These bubbles cover many sins and build a dense head over a cold beer that captivates the world like a well-poured Irish stout.
WIRED editors gleefully suspected foul play after seeing photos of Cumulus’ abundant nitro content. “I swear I used Guinness in the promo shot,” he wrote.
The espresso is similarly fizzy, endowed with a rich, authentic crema formed by the pressure exerted by the device’s powerful compressor. The natural effervescence of the Cumulus espresso itself created my beautifully frothy martini. This is a result that could not be achieved with cold, hot espresso.
Special thanks to cocktail consultant and educator Josh Seeberg of Model Citizen Cocktails in Virginia for sharing the perfect espresso martini recipe to try this product out. For the record, this involved 1.5 ounces of vodka, 0.75 ounces of coffee liqueur such as Mr. Black, and 0.5 ounces of simple syrup mixed with 1 ounce of cold espresso. Mix, shake, pour. This device only does double shots, so one capsule will give you two cocktails worth of cold espresso.
Who is Cumulus for?
On the one hand, Cumulus is a great piece of engineering, succeeding in many ways where other device manufacturers have failed.
But it’s not a device for coffee lovers. Perfect for those who value the convenience of a Keurig and aren’t too fussy, or for those who naturally pack milk, sugar, and other flavors into their cold beer. Cumulus doubles this down with flavored syrups ranging from orange piloncillo to cinnamon demerara.
Photo: cumulus clouds